🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.